Today’s Date: June 6, 2024

Today’s Start Point: Dillon, Montana

Today’s End Point: Ennis, Montana

Today’s Miles: 72.10 Miles

Cumulative Miles: 1,219.79 Miles

I knew today and tomorrow were going to be long days, both over 70 miles with some climbing. I woke up early, took down my campsite and was on the road by 6:30 am.

On the way out of town I stopped in a convenience store to buy some breakfast items. The women behind the counter warned me about rattlesnakes on the road, not once but three or four times. The last time she even used her best “beware the ides of March voice”. She said she had been cycling yesterday and saw about 25 rattlesnakes sunning on the road. All I could think was how I would now be scanning for snakes and yelling “hey bear” along the way. What next, killer prairie dogs?

My route today would take me 27 miles straight north to the town of Twin Bridges, Montana. At Twin Bridges, I would go east for about 40 miles through the ghost town/tourist trap cities of Nevada City and Virginia City to ultimately my destination of the day, Ennis, Montana.

My luck was holding in that it was slightly downhill with a tailwind. I was early enough that all of the irrigation sprinklers were on throughout the valley. I made good time and was in Twin Bridges before 9 am.

In Twin Bridges, I ate another breakfast (why not?) and then headed east towards Ennis. Again my luck held and I had a tailwind, although now slightly uphill.

I passed through the Ruby Valley. Seven mountain ranges surround the valley: Tobacco Root Mountains, Highland Mountains, McCartney Mountain, the Pioneers, the Ruby Range, the Gravelly Range and the Snowcrest Range. No wonder whichever way you turn it is a spectacular mountain view.

Before I got to Ennis, I passed through both Nevada City and Virginia City. Both towns were founded in 1863 when gold was found in Alder Gulch. In today’s dollars, about $2.5 billion worth of gold was extracted from the area.

Both towns rose and fell with the gold, and became ghost towns. As I passed through, as with a lot of things, the towns have been converted into touristy spots, with people wearing period costumes.

Since I am a tourist, I had a burger at the Bale of Hay Saloon. Not great planning on my part since the first thing I had to do once I went east of Virginia City is tackle a three and a half mile climb. Climbing and greasy meat are not the best combination.

Not only was my stomach a problem, but in the first five minutes of the climb my tire punctured. Luckily the sealant filled the hole and I could keep going on my way. Side note: For those unfamiliar: I am riding tubeless tires. They are as named, a tire with no inner tube. The tire itself attaches to the rim of the wheel and is filled with a sealant. If a small puncture occurs, the sealant will close the hole.

It was a tough climb between the gradient, the burger (with accompanying grease) and the heat. Today it was in the 80’s, but fortunately there is no humidity. However, it still is in the 80’s.

Once I got to the top (elevation approximately 7,000 feet), the road flattened out for about a half mile. I went around a curve to start the descent and was stopped short by one of the most incredible views I have ever seen in my life. It was as if I was seeing scenes from every John Ford, Howard Hawkes and George Stevens western.

It was a vast valley (the Madison River Valley) with a wall of huge peaks. I honestly do not know how to adequately describe the view, it actually took my breath away. The pictures below do not accurately portray their grandeur. As I tried to get all of the peaks in frame, it seemed to diminish their impact.

I pulled into a scenic turnout and a father and his kids were also admiring the view. The father was nice enough to take my picture, although after looking at it a I think I still reflected all of the joys(?) of the climb.

At this point, it was a fast and curving descent into the valley. It was fabulous, with each turn a differing perspective of the mountains opening up. It was hard to keep my eyes on the road.

As I got down to the valley floor, others must have the same idea of the view as I do, because there are multiple high-end housing developments. If you want to see the view before civilization comes in, I would travel here soon.

I arrived at the hotel and immediately put ice on my ankles. The right ankle is so swollen it is hitting my water bottle cage. They don’t hurt that bad when I am riding, just when I get off the bike. Hot stock tip-buy Advil, I heard there is an old guy cleaning out supplies throughout the country.

I went to dinner at a place called Sportsmen Lounge, which was right next door. It was established in 1945 and there used to be gambling in the basement. According to the menu (and who am I to question a menu), during the 60’s and 70’s corporate jets would land nearby for events at the lounge, including the games downstairs.

Well, I am off to ice my feet (I never thought I would write that line). Tomorrow is going to be a hard, long day.