Today’s Date: July 25, 2024

Today’s Start Point: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Today’s End Point: Ohiopyle, Pennsylvania

Today’s Miles: 78.01 Miles

Cumulative Miles: 4,089.88 Miles

The weather report last night said that today would be a total washout, but I decided to leave anyway. So far the weather reports have been consistently accurate, it did not rain at all.

My final destination was Ohiophyle, Pennsylvania, a small town on the Greater Appalachian Passage (GAP), the trail that runs from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania to Cumberland, Maryland. I had rented an apartment there and I could not check in until 3:00 pm, so I planned to leave a little later and take my time on the trail.

Although it did not rain during the day, it had rained last night which made the air humid and heavy. I started the ride at 7:00 am and found my way to the Heritage Trail, which goes east out of Pittsburgh and would link up with the GAP after about six miles.

The Heritage Trail ran along the Monongahela River, passing through an urban landscape and industrial sites. The trail was paved, although a little bumpy. As with the entire day, one river or another would always be just to the left of me.

After six miles, the Heritage Trail became the GAP. The trail improved immeasurably, smooth and freshly paved. For most of the rest of the day, trees would line the path to shield me from the sun.

The GAP, like almost all of these trails, has been created by converting a rail line into a bike trail. This has to be the best conversion I have experienced, with the GAP using the original railroad bridges and other new bridges to allow for a safe journey.

I am glad that the GAP exists, since the roads that I see leading away from the rivers go straight up. I am thankful that trains need a relatively flat or minimal gradients to operate.

The GAP is well marked and has restaurants, water and restrooms along the route. As I progressed further, evidence of that path’s creation by carving into the riverside shale left rock walls on my right, a river on my left. After 20 miles in the town of McKeesport, the GAP went from asphalt to crushed limestone. The crushed limestone was actually smoother and very well maintained, although the gravel surface does slow me down just a bit.

Even though it was a hot and humid, the GAP was actually cool due to the shade. Rabbits, squirrels, chipmunks, turkeys and deer were common sights.

I dutifully stopped every 15 miles for my peanut butter sandwich, and the miles went by peacefully. Suddenly, however, I came across another path closure due to construction and they would not let me ride through.

Now this is where the beauty of the GAP comes to light. I was told that there was a shuttle that would take me the on a detour that would get me past the one and a half mile construction closure. Now that is the way to do it.

I waited dutifully for the van, which when it arrived I noticed was pulling a trailer with bike stands on it. An old gentlemen gingerly got out of the van and lowered the ramp to let me put my bike on the trailer. I would learn that this gentlemen was an ex-Pennsylvania State Representative, who had recently broken his hip falling off of a horse (thus the gingerly getting out of the van).

He told me that originally the construction company was just going to close the path and cyclists would have to go inland to find their way around. After driving in the van through that detour, it would take a hearty soul with legs of iron to handle that three mile workaround.

He told me that he personally went to the company and said that someone was going to get hurt and that would damage the company’s and the GAP’s reputation. He proposed a plan where the company would provide four vans and trailers and pay drivers to shuttle the riders. Happily the company agreed to the plan.

It’s a good thing they did. He told me that four eighty year old men were riding the trail and decided not to take the shuttle. Two of them had heart attacks on the detour.

It was an entertaining ride and I had trouble disengaging from him to go on my way. I did say he was an ex-politician. As he was starting in on his conspiracy theory on the JFK assassination, I finally clipped in and thanked him profusely. I can’t think of many times that the powers that be would go to so much trouble to make a cycle path so safe-hats off to the representative from Pennsylvania.

I continued on my way with the river besides me going from the Monongahela to the Youghiogheny The forest was so dense around me that I would only catch glimpses of the river. On the rock walls to my right I would occasionally come across beautiful waterfalls. Today was probably the best scenery I have witnessed since I left the West.

As I progressed, I was steadily but subtlety rising, with the path getting higher and higher above the river. The climb was for the most part imperceptible, the gradient being so low. The farther and higher I got, the louder the river below became. Every now and then I could see the river rushing through rock strewn rapids. White water rafters were testing their skills among the rushing water.

I soon came to an old railroad trestle bridge that was 100 feet high as it crossed the Youghiogheny River. The point I crossed is the Youghiogheny River Gorge. Once on the bridge I could experience beautiful views either up or down river. Since this was a cyclists bridge, it was easy to take my time and enjoy the view.

I finally arrived in Ohiophyle at about 2:30 pm. Ohiophyle is a very cute town that seems to cater to cyclists and white water rafting. I believe that half the businesses are either bike rentals or ice cream shops (yes, I tried two of them). Most of the housing stock seems to be overnight rentals.

When I found my “apartment”, it turns out it is actually a nice little house (and cheaper than most of the hotels that I have stayed in). The inside was roomy and pleasant.

I wish I had more time to explore this area. Frank Lloyd Wright’s Falling Water is only five miles from here.

Tomorrow is another big day because if all goes well, I should be in Maryland. It is hard to believe that a little over a week ago I was in Louisville, Kentucky.