Today’s Date: May 31, 2024

Today’s Start Point: Lowell, Idaho

Today’s End Point: Lolo Hot Springs, Montana

Today’s Miles: 85.40 Miles

Cumulative Miles: 983 Miles

To tell you the truth, I have been worried about today’s route for a few days. The combination of length (85 miles) and climbing (4,350 vertical feet) made me wonder if it was too much. Logistically it made sense since it allowed me get through the Nez-Perce Clearwater National Forest in one jump.

To add to my concern, my route guidebook provides that following relating to the route:

“Since the original development of the TransAmerica Trail, logging and grain truck traffic between Kooskia, Idaho, and Lolo, Montana, has increased substantially. These trucks travel at high speed and can produce strong slipstreams. To make matters potentially more dangerous, U.S. 12 is a curvy, narrow, shoulderless two-lane road with limited sight distances. Shoulders have been added when there is room. While on U.S. 12, we strongly urge that you always do the following: ride as far to the right as possible; wear very bright clothing and a safety triangle; ride only in single file if in a group; listen carefully for traffic behind you, and be prepared to pull off the highway if necessary; and if you do stop, get as far off the road as possible.”

Reading this, the organizers seem to feel that at the approach of any cars, you should jump off your bike and into a ditch while screaming. Not an encouraging pep talk.

Today’s Route was going to follow the twisty and turning West Fork Lolo Creek. The first 70 miles would involve a gradual uphill ride, with grades of only about one to three percent. At the end would be a 4.5 mile, 1,600 foot climb.

Since I wasn’t sure how long it would take me, I woke up at 4:30 am to roll out at 5:30 am (I tried for 5:00 am departure time but the body said no). For 65 miles of the route, there would be no food or water available, so I had to pack it. I stuffed Cliff Bars in my jersey and pulled out my three liter collapsible water carrier (along with the three bottles already on my bike), which proved to be enough.

When I left, the morning fog was heavy in the trees. The road meandered and although I was always climbing, the grade was so minimal I could not tell.

Scenery throughout the ride was relaxing, the West Fork Lolo Creek beside me the whole way. It was me, the trees and the river, with luckily little traffic. Sometimes the big trucks would pass a little too close, but it wasn’t as bad as advertised.

As the miles added up, both shins started to hurt. I did some seat height adjustments and that seemed to help. This trip would be so much easier without these shin issues.

At the end of the 70 mile pleasant uphill section, it was time to tackle the climb over Lolo Pass. It was a constant 5-6% climb, switching back and forth to get over the pass. At the top of the pass is the Montana state border. I can’t say goodbye to Idaho yet because I will be passing through the State on my way south. Unfortunately there was no summit sign so the Montana state border sign will have to do.

Once over the top, it was a steep descent which I handled in my usual expert white knuckle, death grip on the bars fashion. From the top of the pass it was only about eight downhill miles to the hotel.

As I was getting closer to the hotel in Lolo Hot Springs, Montana, I saw a guy leave his car and walk to my side of the highway. At this point, he pulled out his mobile phone and started taking pictures. As I got closer to him, lo and behold it was Bruce McCrindle, a friend and co-worker from the Bank.

Bruce retired a few years ago and relocated to Billings, Montana. Billings is 350 miles away from where Bruce and I met up. He told me previously that he wanted to hook up with me somewhere on the route, but I was not certain if and when that would happen. When I asked him when I would see him, Bruce said “don’t worry, I’ll find you”.

I did not take those words lightly because Bruce is a true outdoorsman, not some dilettante on a bike. Those that know Bruce understand that he is a true character (in the best sense of the word) with a heart as big as all of Montana.

Bruce of course brought me a banana, cold water and some tape and supports for my ankle. He had already scoped out where I was staying and followed me down the rest of today’s route, my own rear protection vehicle.

I checked into the hotel and cleaned up. Missoula was only about 35 miles down the road so Bruce and I drove into Missoula for dinner. I can’t come close to expressing how wonderful it was to have a meal with a friendly and familiar friend. We updated each other on our lives and I even went out on a limb and had an Old Fashioned (tasted awesome). After dinner, Bruce took me back to the hotel and he was going out to do some night fishing (I told you he was a real outdoorsman ). Back at the hotel, I fell asleep in about three seconds.

I could not post this yesterday because the hotel did not have cell service or WiFi.