Date: May 17, 2024

Today’s Start Point: Barview, Oregon

Today’s End Point: Grand Ronde, Oregon

Today’s Miles: 64 Miles

Cumulative Miles: 125.5 Miles

Woke up to blue skies and a wind out of the north-a tailwind. First, I had to figure out what to do with all of my wet clothes. Thankfully, the campground’s restroom had hand driers so I was able to get them from soaked to damp.

From the campsite I headed south along the coast through the towns of Manzanita, Rockaway Beach, Bay City and Tillamook (of Tillamook cheese fame). With blue skies and favorable winds, I was able to actually see the stunning coastline. The road rolled up and down and curved this way and that so as I came around a corner another beautiful vista emerged.

I stopped in Tillamook to buy some more tent spikes which I forgot to pack (at least I remembered to pack my bike), and should have stopped in the many food shops. I had eaten before I left Barview but I wasn’t completely hungry, so I figured I would wait for the next town. Ok, that was a mistake. New rule, if see food-eat it, if see water-drink it.

There was a detour outside of Tillamook which took me away from the coast. The good news-less climbing, the bad news-no food. The route looped me on a valley road that took me back to the coast at Sand Lake. The inland area reminded me of the Wisconsin area around Blue Mound State Park. Rolling farm roads with the hills on each side of you.

Once back on the coast I went south to Pacific City, which at that point was the most beautiful town in the world-lots of food shops. I scarfed down a couple of deli sandwiches and some potato chips (gotta have me some salt) and felt much better. Pacific City is actually a quaint little tourist town with a deep beach and more of the rock formations common on the coast.

From Pacific City I said goodbye to the Oregon coast and headed inland. As opposed to yesterday, it was a long and gradual ascent inland, through huge evergreens along the Little Nestucca River. I crisscrossed the river multiple times and could listen to the sound of the cascading water as it descended from the higher elevation. The only thing that detracted from this idyllic ride was the fact that there was no shoulder and all of the bridges were single lane (you had to wait until anyone from the opposite way went through). As unnerving as it can be sometimes, especially the logging trucks, you really can’t worry about it. Ultimately, not much you can do.

Stopped at another gas station for an early dinner and then went to my campsite in Grand Ronde, Oregon which is next to a Native American Reservation. The site is next to Rock Creek, so as opposed to the sounds of rain and ocean that I heard last night, tonight’s white noise machine is a babbling brook. It is a combination tent area and pet area, I guess I know my place now.

Unfortunately, I lost my staff photographer, John Duggan, yesterday so you will have to put up with my inferior photos for the rest of the trip.

Thanks everyone for the kind thoughts and words on social media, they go a long way in making this easier.